After a six-year hiatus from luxury fashion, Calvin Klein presented its revived Collection line at New York Fashion Week, February 2025. The return marks a new chapter for the American brand, with Italian designer Veronica Leoni taking creative control following her appointment in May 2024.
Leoni arrives with a strong background in luxury fashion, having worked at The Row, Céline during Phoebe Philo's tenure, and Jil Sander. She was also recognized as a finalist for the 2023 LVMH Prize for her label, Quira. "To erase everything that has been done after (Mr. Klein) left, and restart like it was the first day", Leoni stated backstage, describing her approach to the collection.
The brand's previous high-end venture, 205W39NYC under Raf Simons, ended in 2019. While Simons cultivated a following among fashion insiders, the collection struggled to connect with Calvin Klein's broader customer base. PVH Corp., which bought Calvin Klein in 2003, has since focused on repositioning the brand in the premium market segment rather than pure luxury.
Leoni's debut collection showed a mix of hits and misses. The strongest pieces came in outerwear and tailoring, with long trench coats and precise suiting that could translate well to Calvin Klein's commercial lines. However, some designs departed from the brand's minimalist roots, featuring oversized proportions and added details that seemed to conflict with Calvin Klein's historical emphasis on simplicity. Several looks included voluminous sleeves and layered coats that prioritized runway impact over practicality.
The collection nodded to American sportswear traditions through combinations like checked shirts with denim, updating familiar Calvin Klein elements for current tastes. Yet questions remain about how distinctively these designs represent the brand's identity, as many pieces could fit within other labels' collections.
Marketing will play a crucial role in the Collection line's success. Calvin Klein built its reputation partly through memorable advertising, from the Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg campaigns of the 1990s to recent features with Jeremy Allen White. The challenge now lies in creating promotional content that connects the brand's heritage with Leoni's updated vision.
While Leoni's first collection shows potential, particularly in its tailored pieces and outerwear, the true test will be whether she can develop a clear creative direction that appeals to both fashion audiences and Calvin Klein's existing customers. The revival of Calvin Klein Collection represents an opportunity to redefine American minimalism for today's market, though its long-term impact remains to be seen.
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Kristin Kaye
Insatiably curious about human expression, she immerses herself in literature, theater, art, and dance. Her academic journey led to degrees in Modern Literature, where she delved into The Furioso, and Historical Sciences with a focus on Contemporary History. Her studies took her to the prestigious Erasmus University Rotterdam, broadening her international perspective.
Her passion for culture isn't confined to personal enjoyment—it spills onto the pages of various publications. There, she explores not only artistic endeavors but also civil rights issues and the myriad ways human culture manifests itself. For her, writing about these topics isn't just a profession; it's an irresistible calling that stems from her deep-seated fascination with the human experience.