© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
In the heart of London, there's an undeniable creative energy that pulses through the streets; it becomes even more tangible if you have the chance to step inside Dr. Martens office in Camden. Walking through its doors, you're immediately immersed in the rich history and innovative spirit that have defined the brand for decades.
© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
Amid this inspiring setting, Darren McKoy, Creative Director of Dr. Martens, welcomed us and shared his creative journey, deeply shaped by the vibrant subcultures of Sheffield, working-class city in the north of the UK where he grew up together with his family of Jamaican descent.
Dr. Martens has been a cultural icon for decades, deeply connected to a certain norm-breaking attitude. So it may come as no surprise that McKoy's first style icon was indeed his uncle, a black man with a punk spirit, always wearing boots and stay-pressed jeans inspired by skinheads style while listening to bands like The Specials and Madness. His uncle’s nonconformist style inspired him to get his first pair of Dr Martens 1461 boots for school: a moment that marked the beginning of his deep connection with the brand.
© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
How did your journey into the fashion industry begin? And how did your path evolve to eventually lead you to the role of Creative Director at Dr. Martens?
I've been with the company for over 10 years, leading the creative narratives alongside an incredible team. My journey into creativity wasn’t the most typical. It actually started many years ago in football, retail, and product merchandising, rather than design. My love for products, people, and consumers drove me to where I am now: I look at creativity not just as design, curation, or storytelling, but also as a way to connect with consumers, from start to finish. That’s been key to my thinking throughout my career, having worked with several amazing brands where storytelling and its translation have played such a big role in fashion.
© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
How significant is Dr. Martens’ heritage and DNA in shaping your creative approach to the brand? Also Dr. Martens heritage is connected to British cultural movements and subcultures: how do these elements influence and inspire your creative direction?
I am myself a student of history, and I see this role as a current custodian of a brand’s 64 years old history: the brand’s success comes from its timeless design, born as humble worker boots and later transcended through generations of wearers from different subcultures and cultural moments. Every season, my challenge to the team is to start in the archives. We explore how what’s happening on the streets today connects to our past. If there’s a connection, we can leverage it to an authentic story and build a bigger narrative. Innovation is important, but it’s always framed within Dr. Martens' DNA - whether it’s new items or designs (for examples new soles or silhouettes reworked for collaborations) they still need to look and feel like Dr. Martens. The yellow stitching, the outsole, the leather - they’re all essential elements for the brand. In the end, it's "generational", and it's all about authenticity.
For example, Rick Owens is always Rick Owens, Porsche is always Porsche, season after season, they don't deviate too far from what they do really well. We can say that Dr. Martens is like Porsche: the 911 hasn't changed in all those years, it tweaks a little bit, every now and then you'll get new models, but the one that everyone wants is always the icon, the 911, right?
© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
Collaborations are a relevant strategy for brands nowadays. As the Creative Director of Dr. Martens, how do you determine the direction and choice of collabs and partnerships?
Collaboration has always been part of Dr. Martens' DNA, dating back to the 1960s. We work across different creative lenses - style, art, music mainly - and we tend to work with long-term partners who share our ideology, a rebellious spirit and freedom. Whether it's established brands like Stüssy, Supreme, Raf Simons and Off-White or emerging designers with fresh perspectives, our approach is to ensure that our partners align with the brand’s core values. We choose collaborators who wear the brand and understand it. That authenticity is key to creating something that resonates. Some of our collaborations, like with Rick Owens or Vetements, might have surprised people initially because they were unexpected, but once they saw the final product, it made sense. It’s all about finding that balance between staying true to our roots and pushing boundaries.
© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
Do you have a favorite Dr. Martens silhouette? If so, what makes it stand out for you?
Besides the more traditional 1460s and 1461s boots, one of my current favorites is the Lowell, a newer silhouette with a whip-stitch front in suede. It offers versatility for anyone who already owns our classic styles but wants something different. Another standout is the Anistone, a slip-on boot inspired by industrial workwear. Both styles launched recently and have a strong appeal for both male and female consumers, very contemporary and a-gender. We also have the 14XX series with its retro-futuristic look - heritage-driven but with a modern twist. These are examples of how we position the brand in a new place, we innovate while not moving too far from the heritage of the brand.
© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
What’s next for you and Dr. Martens? How do you envision the brand evolving in the near future?
Dr. Martens is going through an exciting period at the moment, with lots of new products and collaborations in the pipeline. Lot of innovation, lots of new stories, lots of new elements of storytelling: we just launched the latest campaign, 'Reboot' that represents a new chapter for the brand. We’re constantly pushing for new ways to tell our story, but it’s important to remember that we are all custodians of this brand’s legacy. Next generations of creatives will come in and build on what we’ve done, just like we’ve built on the past.
© Casawi | Rosanna Elettra
Clara Ferrati
Fashion editor and archivist based in Milan currently working as SMM/copywriter; enthusiast about fashion history & trends, music, cinema, social media.
@clarafrt