WILD STEPPERS: WHEN FOOTWEAR IS INSPIRED BY THE ANIMAL WORLD

Charli CXC for Billboard

When the Hoof Boots from Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2024 debuted on the runway, they didn’t get the attention they deserved. The first collection of the brand under the creative direction of Seán McGirr reinterpreted the heritage of McQueen, reworking an iconic silhouette like the Horse Shoe from FW 2012.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012 via Vogue Runway

The Hoof Boots just dropped online on Alexander McQueen website and they were also worn by popstar Charli XCX on the latest cover of Billboard, making right away the unusual boot a powerful fashion statement.

The shoes are clearly inspired by the hoof of a horse, are available in different colors and there’s even a version with a thick black horse mane (definitely the best one).

Charli CXC for Billboard

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012 via Vogue Runway

The founder of the Maison Lee McQueen took inspiration from the animal world for the first time in 2009, when the memorable Armadillo Shoes came to life walking the runway of spring/summer 2010 Plato’s Atlantis collection: the shape and the texture recalled the armor of the armadillo, and on the final look of the show the shoe was covered in blue/green shiny sequins.

The 21 existing pairs were hand-caved from wood through a complex manufacturing process by Italian craftsmen and most of them are now owned by the McQueen Archive and the MET in New York: the very limited quantity, the cameo in Lady Gaga’s “Bad Romance” music video, and the fact that they were part of Lee McQueen’s final collection (before sadly passing in 2010) make the Armadillo Shoes even more legendary, a piece of fashion history.

via @ladygaga

via Vogue

Alexander McQueen Spring 2010 via Vogue Runway

If we think about shoes and their resemblance with animals, the Tabi by Maison Margiela wins an honorable mention, even though the design of tabi footwear actually has nothing to do with animals. It dates back to ancient Japanese culture, during the Edo period, when the first tabi were designed as a sock for the upper class and warriors; later on it became the footwear for workers in farms and construction sites. The Maison launched the first tabi silhouette in 1988 on the occasion of Martin Margiela debut show, where he placed paint on the soles to make the iconic split-toe even more visible as the models walked the runway leaving footprints.

The tabi by Margiela became a cult in the fashion industry today, but they’re still a controversial item, so if you wear them get ready to be asked why you’re wearing a shoe that recalls an animal hoof. Also if you like split-toe shoes, there are now many brands using this element in their design offering a huge variety of footwear, from ballerinas to Mary Jane, from heels to sneakers, inspired by Japanese tradition.

The references to the animal world in fashion have become more and more common over the years, here a few interesting (and some odd) examples are the funny Rana Mules or the cutest Paw-Shoes both designed by JW Anderson; upcoming talents like Bravest Studio and AVAVAV became viral thanks to their animal-inspired creations, respectively the Bear Claws and the Monster XXL boots.

There’s definitely something fascinating about animal references in footwear, celebrating the shapes, textures and variety of nature in a playful and ironic way.